…… Everything you need to know about Umhlanga
DELISA THWALA
MBABANE – Throngs of Imbali that will be cutting or fetching the reed today were yesterday in a jovial mood after successfully registering.
The maidens now await being commissioned by His Majesty King Mswati III to fetch the reed.
The young girls will proceed to fetch the reed tomorrow. On Friday, they will bring the reed back to Ludzidzini Royal Residence. On Saturday, they will relax, pending delivery of the reed before Their Majesties on Sunday.
Monday will be the main day, where the young girls will showcase their dance skills while they celebrate their chastity before Their Majesties. The maidens will be part of the 55/55 Double Celebration at Somhlolo National Stadium on September 6, 2023.
Some of the visibly jubilant maidens mentioned that they were excited about being part of this huge national event.
“ I’m really happy to be here and be a part of this beautiful event by His Majesty. This is my second time in attendance and I’m very happy,” said Lindiwe Bhembe from Ekukhanyeni.
Another maiden said : “ I cannot wait to lead by example and also dance for their majesties,”
Worth mentioning is that Umhlanga is Eswatini’s best known cultural event, and has a more open feel than the Incwala.
In this eight-day ceremony, young girls cut reeds, present them to the Queen Mother (Indlovukazi) ostensibly to repair the windbreak around her royal residence and then dance in celebration.
Up to 40 000 girls take part, dressed up in brightly coloured attire making it one of the biggest and most spectacular cultural events in Africa.
The proper festivities kick off on day six, when dancing gets under way in the afternoon. Each group drops their reeds outside the Queen Mother’s quarters then moves to the main arena, where they dance and sing their songs.
The dancing continues on day seven, when the king is present. This is the main day that most visitors attend. Each regiment dances before him in turn.
Little can prepare you for the sheer scale of the pageantry, with column upon column of girls advancing like vast ululating centipedes across the parade grounds of Ludzidzini, each dissolving in turn into the pulsating mass of bodies around the royal kraal.
Up close, it is an almost overwhelming immersion in noise and colour, as the girls stamp, sing and sway in step, anklets rattling, naked flesh and dazzling costume blurring into a living, chanting kaleidoscope.
The warrior escorts, adorned with cow tails and clutching knob-stick and shield, are sternly intent on their duties and seem contemptuous of tourists, but the girls are all smiles. It’s Eswatini’s biggest holiday and, after days of tramping the hillsides, cutting reeds and camping out, they’re determined to party.
Today the Umhlanga is as well attended as ever. Indeed cultural historians marvel at how its ever-increasing popularity in Eswatini defies the apparent decline of traditional culture elsewhere. It offers the visitor a unique experience.
There are no special visitor arrangements except for a special grandstand to accommodate visiting dignitaries but simply turn up at Ludzidzini and follow the crowds (Day 7 is the main day). Police will direct you where to go, and where to park.
The Eswatini Tourism Authority has a Tourist Information Centre set up within the Ludzidzini Royal Residence to assist tourists. Visitors are not permitted to wander the Royal Residence freely but can arrange to be accompanied by a local tour guide.
Tourists visiting the annual Reed Dance are allowed to take photographs on Days 6 and 7 (main day) as the maidens walk to deliver the reeds to the Royal Residence, and then as they dance in the main arena. Photography at other times is restricted to accredited members of the media.
Reed Dance Schedule
Day One
The girls gather at the Queen Mother’s royal village. Today this is at Ludzidzini, in Sobhuza’s time it was at Lobamba. They come in groups from the 200 or so chiefdoms and are registered for security. Men, usually four, supervise them, and are appointed chiefs. They sleep in the huts of relatives in the village or in classrooms of nearby schools. This is a very exciting time for the maidens.
Day Two
The girls are separated into two groups, the older (about 14 to 22 years) and the younger (about 8 to 13 years). In the afternoon, they march to the reed-beds with their supervisors. The older girls often march about 30 kilometres, while the younger girls march about ten kilometres. If the older girls are sent further, the government will provide trucks for their transport.
Day Three
The girls cut their reeds, usually about ten to twenty, using long knives. Each girl ties her reeds into a bundle. Nowadays they use strips of plastic for the tying, but those mindful of tradition will still cut grass and plant it into rope.
Day Four
In the afternoon, the girls set off to return to the Queen Mother’s village, carrying their bundles of reeds. Again they return at night. This is done “to show they travelled a long way.
Day Five
A day of rest where the girls make final preparations to their hair and dancing costumes. After all that walking, who doesn’t deserve a little pampering?
Day Six
First day of dancing, from about three to five in the afternoon. The girls drop their reeds outside the Queen Mother’s quarters. They move to the arena and dance, keeping their groups and each group singing different songs at the same time.
Day Seven
Second and last day of dancing. His Majesty the King will be present. This is the ‘Umhlanga Main Day’ and is on Monday 5 September in 2022
Day Eight
King commands that a number of cattle (perhaps 20 -25) be slaughtered for the girls. They receive pieces of meat and go home.
